London Markets – the biggie at Borough
You’ve got to remember that My London was the one of
Thatcher’s Britain. Grey skies. Muddy moods. Gritty.
Food markets were everywhere. They’d pop up in the morning
along a street and often disappear without a trace around lunchtime. Barrow
boys would spruik their wares. Long before twenty-first century
eco-consciousness, markets didn’t run to the expense of plastic bags. You
bought your basket, opened the mouth wide and they’d pour the produce in
straight from the scales.
These neighbourhood markets were the lifeblood of every
suburb in London. Mine was in Dalston. Each week our large shared household would head down and buy produce by the pack
load. There were many treasures I’d never come across before in New Zealand,
especially all the exciting roots and leaves favoured by the local Jamaican
community. Even the somewhat less exotic caused a thrill for a gal who’d never
seen fresh beetroot before. The beets were sold boiled and slopped from
steaming vats. Into a BYO container they’d slip and quickly taken home, sliced
and doused with vinegar while still warm.
While it’s rumoured that the first incarnation of Borough Market opened in the eleventh century, its latest retail incarnation is comparatively recent
and didn't exist in the Thatcher era. Let’s face it, you couldn't even get a decent coffee in London back then.
Fast forward to September 2014 and I finally make it to the
hallowed halls (after a right neighbourhood/wrong day experience two years
earlier). Did it live up to the hype?
Yup.
I swapped recipes with the mushroom seller (her: ‘the giant
fleshy mushrooms cooks and tastes just like chicken”, me: “the chantarelle’s
taste amazing with potatoes”), gorged on some gluten/dairy-free rocky road (no marshmallow but biscuits and
honeycomb), salivated at the beautiful tarts, olives, bread, currants,
tomatillos…
Like those who have gone before, I feasted my eyes and my
belly.
Revelation – the next time I make a falafel I’ll skip the obligatory iceberg/tomato combo and stick to hommos, Middle Eastern pickles and a large
handful of fresh mint. This was one of the cheapest meals I ate in my week in
London and arguably the best.
I don’t need to tell you how to find Borough Market – just
bring your appetite, jump a tube to London Bridge and follow the hungry hoards across Borough High Street.
Labels: Borough Market, falafel, London, mushrooms, photos, rocky road, Syrian food, travel, vegetables